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Changdeokgung

Coordinates: 37°34′46″N 126°59′34″E / 37.57944°N 126.99278°E / 37.57944; 126.99278
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Changdeokgung
Overview of the palace (2012)
Map
General information
LocationSeoul, South Korea
Coordinates37°34′46″N 126°59′34″E / 37.57944°N 126.99278°E / 37.57944; 126.99278
Designations
Official nameChangdeokgung Palace Complex
CriteriaCultural: (ii), (iii), (iv)
Designated1997
Reference no.816
Area57.9 ha (0.224 sq mi)
Official nameChangdeokgung Palace Complex
Designated1963-01-18
Reference no.122
Website
eng.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm
Korean name
Hangul
창덕궁
Hanja
昌德宮
Revised RomanizationChangdeokgung
McCune–ReischauerCh'angdŏkkung

Changdeokgung (Korean: 창덕궁; Hanja: 昌德宮; lit. The Palace of Prospering Virtue), also known as Changdeokgung Palace or Changdeok Palace, is set within a large park in Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea. It is one of the "Five Grand Palaces" built by the kings of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897).[1]

Changdeokgung was the most favored palace of many Joseon kings and retained many elements dating from the Three Kingdoms of Korea period that were not incorporated in the more contemporary Gyeongbokgung. One such element is the fact that the buildings of Changdeokgung blend with the natural topography of the site instead of imposing themselves upon it. Like the other Five Grand Palaces in Seoul, it was heavily damaged during the Japanese occupation of Korea (1910–1945). Currently, only about 30% of the pre-Japanese structures of the East Palace Complex (Changdeokgung together with Changgyeonggung) survive.[2]

Name

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"Changdeokgung" means "Palace of Prospering Virtue".[3]

Changdeokgung and its neighboring palace Changgyeonggung are together known as the "Eastern Palaces" (동궐; 東闕), as they are located to the east of the city's main palace Gyeongbokgung.[4][5]

History

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See also: Changgyeonggung § History

Establishment

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See also: History of Seoul and Gyeongbokgung § Establishment

In 1392 (Korean calendar), Joseon was established. Afterwards, the state's capital Hanyang (also called Hanseong and later called Seoul) was established and Gyeongbokgung was made its main palace (법궁; 法宮; pŏpkung). Due to political turmoil, the capital was temporarily moved to Kaesong and then back to Hanyang in 1404.[6][7] King Taejong (r. 1400–1418) then ordered the establishment of Changdeokgung as a secondary palace (이궁; 離宮; igung). His possible motivations for this order have been analyzed. A number of scholars have argued Taejong wanted to avoid Gyeongbokgung because he associated it with unpleasant memories of familial deaths there[7][8] and thought it had inauspicious feng shui qualities.[7] Some scholars have also argued that he wanted a secondary palace to be freer from the political influences of government offices and politicians in and around Gyeongbokgung.[9]

A temporary office[a] was established to manage the creation of the palace. Changdeokgung's location was finalized on the 6th day, 10th month of 1404, and construction began that day. Under the supervision of Yi Chik [ko], numerous artisans, soldiers, monks, and commoners worked on the construction.[10] The first phase of construction was completed on the 19th day, 10th month of 1405.[11] Taejong entered the palace on the 20th day of that month and held a celebration banquet there. At the time, there were only several complete buildings in the palace, including the royal bedchambers and bathhouse. There was likely not much space for government offices in the palace for government offices at the time; offices in and around Gyeongbokgung were repaired and officials likely went back and forth between those and Changdeokgung. Meanwhile, construction continued. In 1406, the shrine Insojeon (인소전; 仁昭殿; Insojŏn) and a Buddhist shrine were completed in the rear garden area, along with the pavilion Gwangyeollu (광연루; 廣延樓; Kwangyŏllu); in 1408, a pond was dug; and in 1411, a pavilion[b] was completed.[12]

Before the Imjin War

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For the rest of his reign, Taejong primarily resided in Changdeokgung.[4] Gyeongbokgung's restoration was ordered only after Taejong had moved into Changdeokgung.[8] Even after his abdication, he resided in the palace Suganggung (수강궁; 壽康宮; later became Changgyeonggung) next to Changdeokgung; from there he influenced the reign of his son Sejong the Great (r. 1418–1450).[10] Even after Taejong's abdication, construction continued. Part of a building collapsed and the supervisor of that building's construction was exiled as punishment. By 1418, facilities were deemed adequate enough to hold more significant ceremonies at Changdeokgung instead of at Gyeongbokgung.[9] From the third year of Sejong's reign, Sejong began putting more emphasis on Gyeongbokgung and moved frequently between the two palaces.[13][6] In 1426, he ordered that many structures in Changdeokgung be named.[13] In 1427, he entirely moved out of Changdeokgung and resided primarily in Gyeongbokgung, although he continued moving between the two frequently.[13][6] King Sejo (r. 1455–1468) significantly expanded Changdeokgung to the north and east. For one such project, 19,000 people from the Hanyang region were assembled. King Seongjo (r. 1469–1495) also expanded the palace and resided in Changdeokgung for the entirety of his reign. In 1475, he had all 29 of the palace's gates named and held a ceremony for the installation of their name plaques.[14] King Yeonsangun (r. 1495–1506) also greatly renovated the palace, although renovations were put to a halt when he was deposed.[15]

Destruction and reconstruction

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In 1592, during the 1592–1598 Imjin War, all the city's palaces were completely burned down. It is debated who burned down the palaces, as surviving contemporary records are from intellectuals who did not witness the burnings. Various contemporary Korean texts, including the Veritable Records of Seonjo [ko], report hearsay that it was Korean commoners who burned down the palace to destroy palace records. When the Japanese invaders entered the city on the 2nd day, 5th month of that year, Gyeongbokgung was still in tact. Japanese discipline in the city was reportedly initially high, but when they began suffering defeats, they took their frustrations out on the city and locals, burning buildings and killing.[16][17]

After the war, efforts began to repair the city's palaces. Initially, plans were drawn up to have Gyeongbokgung repaired, but these were not acted upon. There is a record of arguments against Gyeongbokgung's reconstruction because of perceived inauspicious qualities of that palace. In addition, Joseon's economy had been devastated by the war, and funding for repairing Gyeongbokgung was likely difficult to procure. Changdeokgung was restored instead; a number of buildings were recreated in their original locations.[18] The first round of restorations was completed in 1610.[4]

In 1623, during the Injo coup [ko] that installed King Injo (r. 1623–1649), rebels burned down almost all the buildings in the palace. Only Injeongjeon, two buildings for the Owi [ko], a palace pharmacy,[c] a building for the government office Ch'unch'ugwan, a building called Biseunggak,[d] a building for the government office Hongmun'gwan, and a building called Sujeongjeon[e] were spared.[18] Injo was crowned at Gyeongbokgung, and resided at Changgyeonggung. In 1624, during Yi Kwal's Rebellion, Changgyeonggung was mostly burned down.[19] In 1633, Injo ordered that buildings in Changdeokgung be repaired. He then began to temporarily reside in the palace pharmacy. Construction work on palaces was interrupted and delayed by the 1636 Qing invasion of Joseon. Minor construction projects occurred in the meantime, especially in the rear garden. Significant construction resumed in 1647 and concluded after five months in 1648; the rapid pace of reconstruction was in part due to the demolition and recycling of buildings in another palace Ingyeonggung [ko]. In total there were around 735 rooms (칸; kan; k'an) in the palace around this time. One significant change after the reconstruction was the presence of more government office buildings. This was in part because the government offices in Gyeongbokgung had not been restored.[20]

This painting, Donggwoldo, depicts Changdeokgung (left) and Changgyeonggung (right) in c. 1824 – c. 1830[21]

After this reconstruction and without rivalry from Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung firmly became the main palace of Joseon. More buildings continued to be constructed in the palace. There was a fire in the palace in 1671.[22] Under the reign of King Sukjong (r. 1674–1720), the form of the rear garden began to near its greatest extent.[23] In 1687, a fire destroyed almost all of the Mansujeon area. In 1702, a fire destroyed part of the East Palace.[24] Succeeding kings continued to expand and renovate the palace, although King Yeongjo (r. 1724–1776) ordered much fewer repairs as he primarily resided in Gyeonghuigung.[23] There was a major fire in the 10th month of 1833, during the reign of King Sunjo (r. 1800–1834).[24] By the 19th century, Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung were functionally a single palace. The two had some unique government officies, although they had some facilities with overlapping purposes.[25]

Late Joseon and Korean Empire periods

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A map[f] of Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung (c. 1908)

In 1865, efforts began to restore Gyeongbokgung.[26] King Gojong (r. 1864–1907) and his family moved out of Changdeokgung and into Gyeongbokgung on the 2nd day, 7th month of 1868.[27] Although Gyeongbokgung was officially made Joseon's main palace, Changdeokgung continued to see some use. Gyeongbokgung experienced major fires in 1873 and 1876. After the 1876 fire, the royal family moved back into Changdeokgung and did not return to Gyeongbokgung until 1885.[25][28] Meanwhile, more maintenance work occurred at Changdeokgung. Such work was interrupted in by the 1882 Imo Incident.[29] In 1891, a number of Changdeokgung's buildings were disassembled and moved to Gyeongbokgung.[25]

Amidst increasing Japanese influence over Korea and the 1895 assassination of Empress Myeongseong at Gyeongbokgung, Gojong fled Gyeongbokgung and made Gyeongungung (later renamed Deoksugung) his official palace. From there, he established the Korean Empire and crowned himself emperor.[30] In 1907, Gojong was forcefully deposed by Japan and replaced by his son Emperor Sunjong (r. 1907–1910), whom ascended the throne at Changdeokgung.[29] Thereafter, Sunjong used Changdeokgung as his primary residence, while Gojong continued to stay in Deoksugung. Historian Lee Gyu-cheol argued that Japan moved Sunjong to Changdeokgung in order to separate him from his father.[31]

Colonial period

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Parts of the palace (notably Nakseon-jae hall) continued to function as a royal residence up to 1989, when both Princess Deokhye and Crown Princess Bangja died. Other post-WWII residents included Empress Sunjeong (Sunjong's second wife), Crown Prince Yi Un, his son Yi Gu and Yi Gu's wife Julia Mullock.

Post-liberation

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Residence for former royals in the palace in the post-war period was at the whim of the republican leaders, and after the Korean liberation in 1945 it would take the resignation of Rhee Syngman for former imperial family members to be allowed back in.

Today there are 13 buildings remaining on the palace grounds and 28 pavilions in the gardens, occupying 110 acres (45 hectares) in all and the area is designated as Historical Site No. 122. Buildings of note include Donhwamun (built in 1412, rebuilt in 1607, with a copper bell weighing 9 short tons or 8 metric tons), Injeongjeon (main hall), Seongjeongjeon (auxiliary office in the main hall), Huijeongdang (the king's private residence, later used as a conference hall), Daejojeon (living quarters), and Nakseon-jae.

Structures

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The palace was built between Peak Maebong of Mt. Bugaksan in the back and River Geumcheon having flowing in the front influenced by the principle baesanimsu (배산임수; lit. back to hill, face to water') in Feng Shui theory. Contrary to Gyeongbokgung whose main buildings are arranged in accurate architectural principle, however, buildings in Changdeokgung are disposed more freely without a regular system. Though its structure seems chaotic at a glance, all buildings are in harmony with the environment surrounding them.

Changdeokgung consists of governmental area (치조; 治朝; chijo) centering on Injeongjeon and Seonjeongjeon, royal private area (침전; 寢殿; chimjeon; lit. a house of king's bedroom), Nakseonjae area in the east, and Huwon beyond the north hills. Most of major official buildings such as Injeongjeon, main hall of Changdeokgung, Seonjeongjeon, king's office, and many of government offices (궐내각사; 闕內各司; gwollaegaksa) are placed in the front parts of the palace, beyond which there are royal private court for king and queen. Kings' houses like Seonjeongjeon, Huijeongdang, and Nakseonjae are surrounded in many folds of buildings and courts in case any outsider breaks in. The architectural style of Changdeokgung overall features simplicity and frugality because of Confucian ideology prosperous during the Joseon Period.[32] Through the commitment to Confucianism, royal members and scholars used principles to maintain a bureaucratic state and socio-political order.[33]

Structures of particular interest include:

Injeongjeon, Main Hall
  • Donhwamun Gate—The main palace gate. Built in 1412, Donhwamun has a two-story pavilion-type wooden structure, and is the largest of all palace gates. Donhwamun was burned down during the Japanese invasion of 1592 and was restored in 1608.
  • Geumcheongyo Bridge—Oldest bridge still extant in Seoul. Built 1411.
  • Injeongjeon Hall (National Treasure)—The throne hall of Changdeokgung, it was used for major state affairs including the coronation of a new king and receiving foreign envoys. Originally built in 1405, it was rebuilt in 1610 after being burned down during the 1592 Japanese invasion, and a third time in 1804 after being destroyed by a fire.
  • Seonjeongjeon Hall—An office for ruling officials. The king held daily meetings with ministers, reported on state affairs and seminars here.
  • Huijeongdang Hall—Originally the king's bed chamber, it became his workplace after Seonjeongjeon was deemed too small for conducting routine state affairs. The original Huijeongdang was destroyed by a fire in 1917. The reconstructed structure is completely different from the original due to recent Western influences. Wooden floorboards and carpets, glass windows, and chandeliers can be seen inside the building.
  • Daejojeon Hall—Official residence of the queen. Destroyed by fire in 1917, it was rebuilt with materials taken from Gyeongbokgung. Daejojeon was used as a residence for the last empress of Joseon, allowing us a glimpse into the final years of the royal household of the Joseon dynasty.
  • Juhamnu Pavilion (Kyujanggak)—Royal libraries stood in this area. Located in Huwon, the library was built in 1776 by King Jeongjo of Joseon, who was interested in reading, and was built for officials to read or discuss while looking down at the garden. The first floor consists of a library and an office, and the second floor consists of a reading room and a conference room. State exams were conducted in front of the pavilion on special occasions in presence of the king.
  • Yeon-gyeongdang Residence—Built in 1827, it was an audience hall modeled after a typical literati house.

Huwon

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A small colorful wooden pavilion on a pond covered with lotus leaves
Buyongjeong Pavilion (pre-2012 restoration), Buyeongji pond and Juhamnu at the Huwon area

Behind the palace lies the 78-acre (32 ha) Huwon (후원, 後苑, Rear garden) which was originally constructed for the use of the royal family and palace women. The garden incorporates a lotus pond, pavilions, and landscaped lawns, trees, and flowers. There are over 26,000 specimens of a hundred different species of trees in the garden and some of the trees behind the palace are over 300 years old. The garden for the private use of the king had been called 'Geumwon' (금원, 禁苑, Forbidden garden) because even high officials were not allowed to enter without the king's permission. It had also been called 'Naewon' (내원, 內苑, 'Inner garden'). Today Koreans often call it 'Biwon' (비원, 秘院, Secret garden) which derived from the office of same name in the late 19th century. Though the garden had many other names, the one most frequently used through Joseon dynasty period was 'Huwon'.[34]

In September 2012, the Buyongjeong pavilion in the garden was re-opened after a year-long restoration project. The pavilion was restored based on the Donggwoldo from 1820, National Treasures of South Korea No. 249.[35]

A variety of ceremonies hosted by the king were held in Huwon. In the early period of the Joseon dynasty, military inspections in which the king participated were often held here. King Sejo had troops parade and array before him or commanded them by himself in the garden. In addition, feasts were given, archery tournaments held, and fireworks enjoyed in Huwon.

The Ongnyucheon (옥류천, 玉流川, "Jade Stream") area is of particular interest. It contains a U-shaped water channel carved in 1636 for floating wine cups, with a small waterfall and an inscribed poem on the boulder above it. The area also contains five small pavilions.

World Heritage

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Changdeokgung was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. The UNESCO committee stated the place was an "outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting" and adapted "to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover."[36]

Portions of the palace were used to film the hugely popular Korean drama Dae Jang Geum in the first decade of the 21st century.

Event

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From April to October 2018, Changdeokgung hosted the 2018 Changdeok Palace moonlight tour. Changdeok Palace moonlight tours are special events where visitors can experience life at the palace. It typically took about two hours and starts at Donhwamun Gate, the main gate of Changdeokgung, at 8 p.m.[37]

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  • Daejojeon
    Daejojeon
  • Gyeonghungak was an attached two-story building of Daejojeon Hall of Changdeokgung. The first story was Gyeonghungak. and the second story was Jinggwangru.
    Gyeonghungak was an attached two-story building of Daejojeon Hall of Changdeokgung. The first story was Gyeonghungak. and the second story was Jinggwangru.
  • Huijeongdang
    Huijeongdang
  • Huijeongdang
    Huijeongdang
  • Royal throne in Injeongjeon
    Royal throne in Injeongjeon
  • Juhamnu
    Juhamnu
  • Nakseonjae
    Nakseonjae
  • Ongnyucheon
    Ongnyucheon
  • Seonjeongjeon
    Seonjeongjeon

Notes

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  1. ^ Called Igungjosŏngdogam (이궁조성도감; 離宮造成都監).[10]
  2. ^ Initially called Haeonjeong (해온정; 解溫亭; Haeonjŏng), renamed Sindokjae (신독재; 愼獨齋; Sindokchae) in 1414.[12]
  3. ^ 내약방; 內藥房; Naeyakbang; Naeyakpang
  4. ^ 비승각; 丕承閣; Pisŭnggak
  5. ^ 수정전; 壽靜殿; Sujŏngjŏn
  6. ^ Entitled Tonggwŏldohyŏng (동궐도형; 東闕圖形).

References

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  1. ^ "The 5 Palaces of Seoul". The Chosun Ilbo. 24 January 2012. Retrieved 23 April 2012.
  2. ^ [서울신문] "일제가 궁궐 이렇게 훼손" 설계도면 첫 공개. Seoul.co.kr (2009-02-27). Retrieved on 2013-07-12.
  3. ^ Yi 2015, p. 21.
  4. ^ a b c Yi 2015, pp. 21–22.
  5. ^ 동궐. Standard Korean Language Dictionary (in Korean). National Institute of Korean Language. Retrieved 2025-03-27.
  6. ^ a b c 이강근 2007, pp. 36–37.
  7. ^ a b c 임석재 (2019-12-10). 예(禮)로 지은 경복궁: 동양 미학으로 읽다 (in Korean). 인물과사상사. pp. 88–90. ISBN 978-89-5906-551-6.
  8. ^ a b 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 6.
  9. ^ a b 이강근 et al. 2011, pp. 6–7.
  10. ^ a b c 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 7.
  11. ^ "이궁이 완성되다. 그 구조와 규모". Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty (in Korean). Vol. 10. National Institute of Korean History. 1405. Retrieved 2025-03-30.
  12. ^ a b 이강근 et al. 2011, pp. 6–8.
  13. ^ a b c 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 9.
  14. ^ 이강근 et al. 2011, pp. 9–10.
  15. ^ 이강근 et al. 2011, pp. 10–11.
  16. ^ 이강근 2007, pp. 40–41.
  17. ^ 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 11.
  18. ^ a b 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 12.
  19. ^ 이강근 et al. 2011, pp. 12–13.
  20. ^ 이강근 et al. 2011, pp. 13–14.
  21. ^ Yi 2015, p. 25.
  22. ^ 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 14.
  23. ^ a b 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 15.
  24. ^ a b 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 16.
  25. ^ a b c 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 18.
  26. ^ 이규철 2007, p. 43.
  27. ^ 이규철 2007, p. 46.
  28. ^ 이규철 2007, p. 54.
  29. ^ a b 이강근 et al. 2011, p. 20.
  30. ^ Kim, Jinwung (2012). A History of Korea: From "Land of the Morning Calm" to States in Conflict. Indiana University Press. pp. 308–309. ISBN 978-0-253-00024-8.
  31. ^ 이규철 (2020). "대한제국 시기 한성부의 근대이행과 황궁의 변화". 대한제국 황제의 궁궐 [Imperial Palace of the Daehan Empire] (in Korean). 문화재청 궁능유적본부 덕수궁관리소. pp. 168–169. ISBN 978-89-299-1925-2.
  32. ^ HAM, Kwangmin, Mingliang KONG, Toru MITANI, and Junhua ZHANG. "A Comparative Study of Space Characteristics of Chinese Summer Palace and Korean Changdeokgung Palace Garden from the Aspect of Horizontal Tablet." Journal of The Japanese Institute of Landscape Architecture 76.5 (2013): 501-04. Web.
  33. ^ Chung, Edward Y. J. Korean Confucianism: Tradition and Modernity. The Academy of Korean Studies Press, 2015, https://www.aks.ac.kr/ikorea/upload/intl/korean/UserFiles/UKS3_Korean_Confucianism_eng.pdf.
  34. ^ Seo Ji-eun; Moon Gwang-lip; Kim Hyung-eun (26 October 2010). "Tourist sites confront translation troubles". Korea JoongAng Daily. Archived from the original on 29 June 2013. Retrieved 15 April 2013.
  35. ^ "Ancient Palace Pavilion Restored". Korea Tourism Organization. Archived from the original on 4 February 2020. Retrieved 4 October 2012.
  36. ^ WH Committee: Report of the 21st Session, Naples 1997. Whc.unesco.org. Retrieved on 2013-07-12.
  37. ^ "Winter Tour of Changdeok Palace".

Sources

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In Korean

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In English

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